Massolino Barolo 'Parussi' 2020
The Wine
This is the only Barolo vineyard Massolino owns beyond Serralunga—‘the egg outside the nest’ as an old Piemonte saying goes. On the crest of the ridge, Parussi sits right next to the Serralunga border on the Castiglione Falletto side. The blue, iron-rich Sant'Agata marls here are a little lighter and more oxygenated, with more silt and less clay than in Serralunga. This makes for more vigour in the vines and a completely different style of wine.
The Massolino family were attracted to the excellent southeast-to-southwest exposure, combined with the age of the vines (45 years) and the vineyard’s situation at 290 metres above sea level. To this day, Massolino is the only Barolo producer to bottle a single-vineyard wine from this Cru.
As always, this is quite different from the Serralunga wines, with more pungent depth and firmer tannins. It is an outstanding example of Castiglione Falletto, showing the depth of the place and the class of Massolino. Again, it fermented and aged in large oak, with around three weeks on skins, and is one of the best examples of this wine to date.
As always, this is an outstanding example of Castiglione Falletto—with the depth of the place and the class of Massolino. Again, fermented and aged in large oak, with around three weeks on skins, this is one of the best examples and certainly the most approachable Parussi to date.
95 pts, James Suckling, jamesuckling.com 'Vivid red fruit with subtle floral and citrusy notes and hints of crushed stones. Medium-bodied with firm tannins. Structured and focused with a lingering, expanding aftertaste. Impressive density. Try after two to three years.'
94 pts, Antonio Galloni, Vinous 'The 2020 Barolo Parussi is a classy, nuanced wine. It shows lovely textural depth and resonance, but in the mid-weight style of the year. Dark red cherry, lavender, rose petal, mint and spice all build nicely, filling out the layers effortlessly. The 2020 is weightless and elegant, with the understated textural depth that is such a signature of this vintage.'
The Details
Variety - Nebbiolo
Country - Italy
Region - Piemonte
Sub Region - Barolo
Extra - Cork
Year - 2020
Volume - 750ml
About the Wine Maker
Founded in 1896 by the enterprising Giovanni Massolino—he was the first to bring electricity to the town—the estate is based in and around the town of Serralunga d’Alba, one of the prime sub-zones of Barolo. Today, the keys of this historical estate belong to Franco and Roberto Massolino who work with gifted, ex-Vajra winemaker Giovanni Angeli. Behind Massolino’s rise to the apex of Barolo lies their remarkable collections of Serralunga vineyards, including choice parcels of such famous sites as; Margheria, Parafada and the legendary Vigna Rionda where the Massolino family is the largest holders with 3.5 hectares of vines (two are planted to Nebbiolo) between 40 and 50 years old. Outside of this commune, Massolino also tends vines in the great Parussi Cru of Castiglione Falletto.
The high-altitude chalky hillsides of Serrralunga d’Alba, on the eastern edge of the Barolo DOCG, produce some of the most profound and long-lived Barolo wines. It is the home of great names such as Giacomo Conterno and Bruno Giacosa’s Falletto vineyard. The wines often have an extra stuffing of intense Nebbiolo fruit as well as a remarkable minerality that plays on both the freshness of the tannins and gives the wines a certain ferrous edge when young.
There are many great things to write about Massolino, a family winery based in Serralunga d'Alba. As I reflect on these wines, I am struck by the harmony and perfection of the overall portfolio: the clear identity of each product and its placement within the Massolino quality pyramid and the crescendo of wines that culminates with a truly memorable single-vineyard Baroli and the top-shelf Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda. The portfolio has a few unexpected surprises too, such as a very elegant Moscato d'Asti and a cheerful Riesling.” Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate